Small Amplitude Wave Theory

Parameters of a water wave, using small amplitude wave theory.

Computing the main parameters of a Water wave, using the small amplitude wave theory.

Inputs:
d = water deep (m)
H = wave height (m)
T = wave period (s)
z = depth below the SWL (m)
anitime = time animation (s)

Outputs:
k = wave number
sigma = Frecuency
L = wave length
C = wave phase velocity
Cg = wave group velocity
Energy = energy density
Energy_flux = energy flux
Sxx = Radiation stress (onshore)
Syy = Radiation stress (longshore)
steepness = wave steepness
ursell = Ursell parameter
eta = wave profile
u, w = water particle velocity
ax, az = water particle accelerations
tseta, epsilon = water particle displacements
p = subsurface pressure

Syntax:
Airy(h,H,T,z,anitime)

Notes:
none.

Example:
[k,sigma,L,C,Cg,Energy,Energy_flux,Sxx,Syy,ursell,steepness,eta,u,w,ax,az,tseta,epsilon,p] = SmallAmplitude(50,3,10,5,5);

Referents:
CERC. (1984). Shore Protection Manual. CERC. USA.
Darlymple, R.G. and Dean R.A. (1999). Water Wave Mechanics
for Engineers and Scientist. World Scientific. Singapure
Le Mehuate, Bernard. (1976). An introduction to hidrodynamics
and water waves. Springer-Verlag. USA.
Sarawagi, T. (1995). Coastal Engineering-Waves, Beaches,
Wave-Structure Interactions. Developments in
Geotechnical Engineering, 78. Elservier. Netherlands.

Programming: Gabriel Ruiz Martinez.
UNAM 2006.